Marrakesh - Morocco

The day after returning from the magical island of Lanzarote, I was again off, this time to Morocco and the fairy tale city of Marrakesh.  I knew very little about Morocco and my last visit to this country goes back to the mid-sixties when, once a year, my parents drove to Fez from Algeria to visit my mother’s sister.  I landed in Marrakesh late one evening and was absolutely bowled over by the impressive new airport facilities, the efficiency of the airport personnel and customs officials. 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Airport Arrival Entry Area



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Just out of the Airport

A taxi took me from the airport to the Medina, my hotel.  On the way, we drove through magnificent, wide, and well-lit avenues lined up with modern buildings, a testimony of the new look Marrakesh.  I soon arrived at the Medina and now, the real Marrakesh was waiting for me. 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Wide Avenues of the New Marrakesh



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - A Garden at the New Marrakesh



 

Marrakesh, also known by the French spelling Marrakech is a major city of the Kingdom of Morocco.  It is the fourth largest city in the country, after Casablanca, Fez and Tangier. Located to the north of the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, Marrakesh is possibly the most important of Morocco's four former imperial cities (cities that were built by Moroccan Berber empires).  The region has been inhabited by Berber farmers since Neolithic times.  The actual city was founded in 1062.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Atlas Mountains.  No snow that Day



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Old Part of Marrakesh

The red walls of the city which stretch for some 19 kilometers around the medina were built by the Almoravids in the 12th century as protective fortifications.  The walls are made of a distinct orange-red clay and chalk, giving the city its nickname as the "red city".  They stand up to 5.4 metres high and have 20 gates and 200 towers along them.  Marrakesh, also known as "the Daughter of the Desert " grew rapidly and established itself as a cultural, religious, and trading centre for the Maghreb and sub-Saharan Africa.  After a period of decline, the city was surpassed by Fez, but in the early 16th century, Marrakesh again became the capital of the kingdom.  The city regained its pre-eminence with sumptuous palaces such as the Bahia Palace.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Red Walls of Marrakesh



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Courtyards of the Bahia Palace

Like many Moroccan cities, Marrakesh comprises an old fortified city packed with vendors and their stalls at the medina.  Today, it is one of the busiest cities in Africa and serves as a major economic centre and tourist destination.  Marrakesh is particularly popular with the French, and a number of French celebrities own property in the city.


Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Silverware Shop at the Medina



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Leather Goods at the Medina

One of the most famous French expatriates was at the beginning of the 20^th century the artist Jacques Majorelle who built the now world-famous Jardin Majorelle.  A few decades later, the illustrious fashion designer Yves St Laurent purchased and restored the Majorelle property and settled in Marrakesh.  Yves, like Jacques drew a lot of inspiration for his creations from the colours and the intensity of the light in Marrakesh.  The garden, open to the public since 1947, has a large collection of plants from five continents.


Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Bamboo Alley at the Jardin Majorelle



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - One of the Many Green Spaces at the Jardin Majorelle



Next to the Jardin, the 4000 m2 Musée Yves St Laurent features a permanent exhibition highlighting 40 years of the designer’s work.  The collections are housed and safeguarded in a custom-designed space to ensure that the highest conservation norms for these priceless pieces are applied.  Unfortunately, no photos or videos were allowed so you’ll just have to take my word for it.  It was the first time I saw some Haute Couture pieces.  The fabrics, the colours, the jewels and the accessories; the visit was fascinating.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Yves St Laurent Museum at Marrakesh

 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Art Work at the Y.S.L Museum

 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Coloured Glass Windows at the Y.S.L Museum

 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - French Actress Catherine Deneuve - Yves' Lifelong Friend



Marrakesh has the largest traditional market in Morocco, with numerous souks selling wares ranging from traditional Berber carpets to consumer electronics.  Crafts employ a significant percentage of the population, who primarily sell their products to tourists.  Marrakesh is one of North Africa’s largest centres of wildlife trade, despite the illegality of much of this trade. Most of these items can be found in the medina and adjacent squares.  Tortoises are particularly popular for sale as pets but Barbary macaques and snakes can also be found.



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - A Busy street in One of the Many Souks in Marrakesh



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Incense and Other Minerals



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Medicinal and Culinary Herbs

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Traditional Shops at the Souk

 

During the early 20th century, Marrakesh underwent several years of unrest.  The country was plagued by anarchy, tribal revolts, the plotting of feudal lords, and European intrigues.  In 1907, Dr. Mauchamp, a French doctor, was murdered in Marrakesh, suspected of spying for his country.  France used this event as a pretext for sending its troops.  On 30 March 1912, the French Protectorate in Morocco was established until the independence of the country and the reestablishment of the monarchy in 1956.

 

The historic wealth of the city is manifested in palaces, mansions and other lavish residences.  Riads (Moroccan mansions) are common in Marrakesh.  Based on the design of the Roman villa, they are characterized by an open central garden courtyard surrounded by high walls.  This construction provided the occupants with privacy and lowered the temperature within the building.  Many riads have been converted into hotels for the growing number of tourists who come to visit the city all year round. 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Narrow Street Leading to my Riad

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Riad Jennah Rouge



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Breakfast Area at the Riad



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Stairs Leading to the Various Floors of the Riad



Moroccan cuisine is often reputed to be some of the best in the world, with countless dishes and variations proudly bearing the country's colonial and Arabic influences.  Surrounded by lemon, orange and olive groves, the city's culinary characteristics are rich and heavily spiced but not hot, using various preparations of Ras el Hanout (which means "Head of the shop"), a blend of dozens of spices which include ash berries, chili, cinnamon, grains of paradise, monk’s pepper, nutmeg and turmeric.



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Commonly Used Spices in Morocco

Moroccans often elect to begin their meals with warming bowl of Harira a delicious soup made from lentils, chick peas, lamb stock, tomatoes, and vegetables.  Soups are also traditional breakfasts in Morocco.  Bissara, a thick soup made from split peas and a generous wallop of olive oil can be found bubbling away near markets and in medinas in the mornings.

Couscous made from steamed semolina grains is the staple food for most Moroccans and is probably the best known Moroccan meal.  It can be served as an accompaniment to a stew or tagine, or mixed with meat and vegetables and presented as a main course.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Couscous of Lamb, Vegetables and Beef

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Another Version of the Moroccan Couscous

A specialty of the city and the symbol of its cuisine is a tajine prepared with beef meat, spices and slow-cooked for many hours in a conical clay pot.  There are dozens of variations, including chicken with lemon and olives, honey-sweetened lamb or beef, fish or prawn in a spicy tomato sauce.  Another version of the tajine includes vegetables and chickpeas seasoned with flower petals.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Tajine with Meat and Dates

 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Tajine Pots



A pastilla is a filo-wrapped pie stuffed with minced chicken or pigeon that has been prepared with almonds, cinnamon, spices and sugar. 

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Meat and Vegetable Pastilla



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Pastilla with Roasted Capsicum, Pumpkin and Eggplant



The Moroccan tea culture is widely practiced in Marrakesh; green tea with mint is served with sugar from a curved teapot spout into small glasses.  Sweet pastries are often served with the tea.  These are mainly made with flour, semolina almonds, dates, figs, and are covered with lashes of honey.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - A Refreshing Cup of Mint Tea and Sweet Pastries



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Delicious Sweet Pastries

Another popular non-alcoholic drink is orange juice.  Under the Almoravids, alcohol consumption was common; historically, hundreds of Jews produced and sold alcohol in the city.  In the present day, alcohol is sold in some hotel bars and restaurants.



Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Orange Juice with Bread and Tomato Concassee

I enjoyed my stay in Morocco immensely.  I however have felt almost harassed by a portion of the local population whose main objectives seems to draw as much cash as they possibly can from the tourists.

When purchasing anything in Morocco, and especially in the Medina souks and shops, it is imperative to bargain and bargain hard regardless of the nature or value of the item.  When given a price for anything, simply half the price and go from there.  Never settle for more than 65% of the initial price or you will be taken for a ride.  A lot of beggars will approach you for a donation.  This is up to you to decide who will benefit from your generosity.

Other than this, the Moroccan people are really friendly and their welcome is second to none.  I enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the Medina, the magnificence of its palaces, the smells of the spices, the colours all around and the delicious foods.  I had a truly wonderful time there.