Daniel's European Food, Wine & History Tours: Essaouira

Tuesday 1 May 2018

Essaouira - Morocco

A small seaside town with impressive 18th-century fortifications, Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador by its Portuguese name, is a city located three-hour’s drive west of Marrakesh in Morocco on the Atlantic Coast. The modern name means "the little rampart", a reference to the fortress walls that still enclose part of the city. Strong trade winds make it one of the world’s great surf spots. It has enjoyed a healthy tourist trade since the 1960s, when hippie icons like Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens made high-profile visits. I went to this city wanting to walk the streets where these famous artists once spent some time there.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Entrance Gate of the Old Essaouira, Morocco

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Ramparts of the old Essaouira, Morocco

I took a day trip to Essaouira with a stopover on the way to an Argan Oil distillery. Argan oil is highly praised both for its cosmetic but also culinary uses and qualities. The distillery employs a number of women whose job is to crack the Argan nuts and extract the precious kernels. The kernels are then crushed and the oil is collected and processed into a variety of products.

Much of the argan oil produced today is made by a number of women's co-operatives. This source of employment provides an income, which many have used to fund education for themselves or their children. It has also provided them with a degree of autonomy in a traditionally male-dominated society.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Argan Oil

From the oil to soap...

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Argan Soap

Archeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harbour protected against strong marine winds.

Essaouira has long been considered as one of the best anchorages of the Moroccan coast. The Carthaginian navigators visited the area in the 5th century BC and established the trading post of Arambys. Around the end of the 1st century BC or early 1st century AD, a Berber king established a Tyrian purple dye factory. This dye colored the purple stripe in imperial Roman Senatorial togas. During the middle Ages, a Muslim saint named Sidi Mogadoul was buried in Essaouira, probably giving its origin to the name "Mogador".

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Taking a Break, Essaouira, Morocco

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Beautiful Fabrics Essaouira, Morocco

In 1506, the king of Portugal ordered a fortress to be built there. Altogether, the Portuguese are documented to have seized six Moroccan towns and built six stand-alone fortresses on the Atlantic coast. They had to abandon most of their settlements between 1541 and 1550.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Street Entertainers, Essaouira, Morocco

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - A Rug Shop, Essaouira, Morocco

During the 16th century, powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar, molasses and the anchoring of pirates. France was involved in an early attempt to colonise Mogador in 1629. After this expedition, the French government signed a treaty in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, preferential tariffs, the establishment of a Consulate, and freedom of religion for French subjects. The present city of Essaouira was built during the 18th century.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - The Essaouira Mosque, Morocco

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Narrow Street in Essaouira, Morocco

Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter contains many old synagogues and a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, outmoded by direct European trade with sub-Saharan Africa. From 1912 to 1956, Essaouira was part of the French protectorate of Morocco. France had an important administrative, military and economic presence during that period. Many Moroccans of Essaouira still speak French fluently today.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - the beach, Essaouira, Morocco

In the early 1950s film director and actor Orson Welles stayed at Essaouira while filming his 1952 classic version of "Othello" which contains several scenes shot in the labyrinth streets and alleyways of the medina. Several other film directors have utilised Essaouira's photogenic and atmospheric qualities.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Street in Essaouira, Morocco

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Rugs for sale line the narrow street.

Daniel's Food and Wine Tours - Quiet narrow street in Essaouira, Morocco

Essaouira presents itself as a city full of culture. Several small art galleries are found all over the town. Since 1998, the Gnaoua Festival of World Music is held in Essaouira, normally in the last week of June. It brings together artists from all over the world. Dubbed as the "Moroccan Woodstock,” it lasts four days and attracts annually around 450,000 spectators.