Showing posts with label Olives. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Olives. Show all posts

Saturday, 6 June 2015

Algerian Food

One of my passions in Life has always been Food.  I love eating it but most importantly, I want to know where it comes from, how it was grown, how it was cooked and who cooked it.  Cooking methods are very important to me and I love watching people preparing their food, asking them why they do it in such a way; find out where these recipes come from and who handed them down from one generation to the next.

Algerian food is very healthy and very fresh.  In the part of the country that I travel to, seafood plays an important part in the population’s diet.  Anything from sardines, to prawns, red mullet, groper, langoustines, squid, cuttlefish, tuna, bonita and other abundant seafood is sold on the streets or in shops.  Daily arrivals of this commodity is kept cold on ice and the freshness of that produce is second to none.



Seafood Shop in Oran
 
I was driving through Ain-el-Turck one day with my friend Kader and saw a fishmonger on the footpath with two trays of freshly-caught sardines.  I couldn't resist the idea of sardines for lunch so we stopped and picked some up.  We went back to my friend's place and enjoyed a succulent meal of fried sardines.  To prepare these, you simply take their insides out, roll them in salted flour and shallow fry them in olive oil.  Once cooked, you take the whole sardine and eat each side of the fish before discarding the back bone and the head.  These can also be baked in an oven and eaten in the same fashion; simply delicious and so fresh.

Fresh Sardines


I was invited to my friend Mohamed's place for lunch one day.  His wife had prepared some fried red mullet and merlan in pretty much the same fashion as I described for the sardines.  Note the olives that accompanied the fish dish. The red mullet is widely found in the Mediterranean Sea.  It is a favoured delicacy in Algeria, and in antiquity, it was "one of the most valued fish for the Romans.  The merlan, commonly known to us as whiting, is also an important food fish in the Mediterranean basin.


Fried Whole Red Mullet and Merlan with Assorted Olives
 
I bought this lot of red mullet from a fisherman who had just arrived on the beach and was selling his catch.  We had these lightly salted, grilled whole and eaten that evening.  They were just delicious.

A catch of fresh Red Mullet

This is one of the many seafood platters that greet you when you arrive at my favourite restaurant in Arzew; "Les Gazelles".  That restaurant is located by the water and offers its patrons an uninterrupted view of the sea as you enjoy the many delicacies that the Chef has on offer for you.  Seafood of course is the restaurant's speciality and it is cooked in a huge variety of ways.  I go the Les Gazelles every year and my favourite dish is oven-baked Groper.  A truly delicious treat fit for a king and eaten in a most enjoyable atmosphere and with the greatest outlook. 


Seafood Platter at Les Gazelles Restaurant near Arzew
 
Fruit and vegetables are also abundant, of high quality and at very affordable prices.  The Algerian diet is very healthy and although there is a tendency to gradually move towards more processed foods, especially among the younger generations, the vast majority of the population still enjoys organically grown foods that are low in fats and high in fibre.
Local fruit stalls, located on the footpath are a common sight in Algeria.  This produce is usually sold by the farmers themselves or a member of the family.  In this instance, these organic peaches were grown locally and had been picked straight off the trees that morning.  The smell, the flavour and taste of these fruits were a pleasure one seldom can enjoy today. 

Stone Fruit Sold on the Footpath in Ain-el-Turck
 
Fresh figs mainly come in two varieties in Algeria; the green-skinned pictures below and the black-skinned.  There is a slight difference in taste but both varieties are delicious.  You can find dried figs but the vast majority of this fruit is eaten fresh.  These figs were available at the Kristel market and provided a tasty snack during our morning tea break.

Fresh Figs



Fresh herbs play an integral part in almost every Algerian dish.  The most popular ones are flat-leaf parsley and coriander which people use by the handfuls in their cooking.  Mint is also a must in Algerian cooking but also in the traditional sweet tea which is consumed in huge amount by the locals to celebrate any occasion from a meeting with friends at a café to a family reunion or a festive occasion.  Stalls selling fresh herbs can be found almost everywhere you go.

A Fresh Herb Merchant in Oran
 
Spices also play a major part in Algerian cooking.  The most commonly used spices are dried Red Chillies of different kinds, caraway, as el Hanout; a spice mix which plays a similar role in North African cuisine as Garam Masala does in Indian cuisine.  Ras el Hanout is used in many savoury dishes, sometimes rubbed on meat or fish, or stirred into couscous or rice.  Other spices such as Black Pepper, Cumin, Saffron, Nutmeg, Ginger, Cloves, and Cinnamon are also among the favourite spices you will find in Algerian cuisine.  Cayenne pepper, Ginger, Fennel, Caraway, Aniseed, Wild Parsley and Mint are also commonly used.  Spices are sold on the streets as well as spice shops and are available in bulk.  I prefer buying my spices in shops as they are displayed in more enclosed areas as in open air and one can really appreciate the full tantalising fragrances of the various spices on offer.

A Spice Merchant in Oran
 

In Algeria, olive trees have long been prized for their fruit and its oil.  Olives are prepared in a number of tasty ways and served on their own, or as an ingredient in the preparation of certain dishes. Olive production in Algeria is currently expanding and the production and processing of olives and olive oil is being modernised. There are currently 300 000 ha of olive groves in Algeria and, in 2007, the sector produced about 40.000 tones of olive oil and 100.000 tones of table olives.  Needless to say that you will always find olives on the table and at every meal.  Picked at different stages of maturity, prepared in many different ways and using specific blends of spices and herbs, olives are a must in the Algerian diet.  Here again, these are available in bulk and pretty much everywhere you go for your daily food shopping.
A Fresh Olive Merchant in Oran
 
In most open-air markets in Algeria, you will find a snail merchant.  Snails are commonly used in Algeria and are usually hand-picked in the countryside during rainy periods.  As a child, still living in Algeria, each time it rained, my family went to their favourite spots to collect snails.  Before they are cooked, the snails must first be prepared by purging them of the contents of their digestive system. To purge a snail, the usual method is a combination of fasting while being kept in a wet environment.  These are then blanched in boiling salt water and then cooked in a tasty sauce which has been prepared separately by using onions, garlic, tomatoes, almonds and a wide variety of herbs and spices.  Although this kind of preparation is lengthy, the result is well worth the effort and it is a huge improvement on the traditional snails in garlic butter.

Anyone for Snails?
 

Fresh date merchants such as this fellow pictured below are a common sight in the streets of Oran.  The dates come from the Sahara which means Desert in Arabic.  Date palms can be found in oases throughout  the south of the country across the desert region.  They are cultivated in 9 Saharan districts, of which the most productive are Biskra, Adrar, El Oued, Ouargla and Ghardaia.  Dates are sold fresh and are available as bunches or loose in smaller quantities.  They are succulent and so much tastier and juicier than the packaged dates one commonly finds in supermarkets.   Algeria used to be Africa’s second largest producer of dates, behind Egypt and the tenth largest exporter of dates by volume in 2010 (according to the UN's Food & Agriculture Organisation). Tunisia today claims the top spot.

A Fresh Date Merchant in Oran
 

I took this photo in Mers-el-Kébir.  It had a charm all of its own.  As you can see; all that this fellow was selling was eggs.  This type of specialised selling is quite common among street sellers who simply concentrate on just offering the shoppers only the one product.  Although cars are an ever increasing commodity in Algeria, donkeys are still widely used to transport various items and even people.  I loved the VW car hub cap at the back of the cart.  It shows that a little imagination can give character to the most humble of contraptions.

An Egg Merchant Selling on the Street in Mers-el-Kébir 

I love visiting the local markets, mingle amongst the locals and watch the foods they buy and how they eat them.  Supermarkets are still rare in that part of the country.  Instead, you will find corner stores where most of the foods such as spices, pulses herbs etc… are still being sold in bulk.  In a way, shopping for food over there is like going back in time when things were much simpler and healthier.

Open-air markets are a common sight in Algeria.  The Kristel market is one of my favourites and I always stop there on my way to Arzew for lunch at my favourite restaurant "Les Gazelles".  Kristel is a small fishing village situated between the cities of Oran and Arzew in the northwest part of Algeria.  Local farmers bring their produce every day and the local population enjoys a wide variety of produce and at very affordable prices.

Farmers Selling their Produce at the Kristel Market



Foods ranging from soups to stews, desserts and pastries are extremely tasty.  They are cooked with a wide range of spices which make them truly unique in taste and an unforgettable experience when you eat them.  Here are a small sample of the foods I adore and look forward to enjoy each time I return to Algeria during the months of September and October.

Zlabia is an Algerian pastry which the locals enjoy throughout the year with the traditional Arab sweet mint tea.  This delicacy is made by piping and deep-frying a wheat flour batter in circular shapes, which are then soaked in honey or sugar syrup while it is still hot. Zlabia is particularly popular during Ramadan.  This delicious sweet gets crunchy once it has cooled and keeps for a few days without refrigeration. As with most Algerian cake shops, the proud display of the pastries plays an important part in attracting the customers.

Zlabia at the Cake Shop


Makrouds are a North African pastry commonly eaten in Algeria, Tunisia and some parts of Libya.  They are small semolina cakes cut in the shape of lozenges or squares, stuffed with dates, hazelnuts, or almonds.  In the past, Makrouds were made at home but increasingly today bakers and pastry chefs do the work.  The dough which is made of semolina gives the pastry a very specific texture and flavour.  Makrouds can be either fried in oil or oven-baked.  Once cooked, they are soaked in honey or sugar syrup.  One is never enough when I buy these at my favourite cake shop in Oran.
 
Makrouds at the Cake shop 

 
Most bakeries in Algeria offer their customers two main types of breads; the traditional Arabic Flatbread called "Khubz" on the left of the picture and the French baguettes, a reminder of the country's recent colonial past.  Although French style bread is still quite popular in Algeria, Khubz remains a staple in the country's diet. It is traditionally cooked in a brick oven, but can be baked in a modern oven.  Nothing beats the smell of hot freshly baked bread in the morning.

Traditional and French-Style Breads
 
Couscous is a traditional Berber dish of semolina granules of Durum wheat which is cooked by steaming.  Couscous is a staple food throughout the North African cuisines of Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia, Libya and to a lesser extent in the Middle East.  Although it is traditionally served with a meat or vegetable stew spooned over it, a sweet version of couscous is also popular in Algeria.  The image below shows a bowl of steamed couscous with white sugar at the top of the dish and some small candy sprinkled throughout.  Other versions of sweet couscous include almonds, dried fruit such as sultanas, prunes, figs and dates.  Orange blossom and generous amounts of cinnamon compete this delicious dish which is traditionally served with a runny version of yoghurt called "Petit Lait". 
Sweet Couscous 
 
In the savoury version of the Algerian couscous; one of my favourite Algerian meals, this festive dish is made  primarily with either lamb or chicken.  You will occasionally find a couscous made with beef but the prohibitive price of this meat means it is seldom used.  Chickpeas, onion, carrots, zucchinis usually accompany the meat.  The couscous is steamed and the meat and vegetables are served on top of the couscous as per the image below.  A sauce, produced by the cooking of the meat and the vegetables, seasoned with pepper, sweet paprika, turmeric, cumin and coriander is poured over the dish before serving.  Harissa, a chili paste mixed with some of the sauce is served separately for anyone wanting a hot taste  for their dish.  Whether hot or mild, this dish is an absolute delight I always look forward to it whenever I travel to that country.



The Traditional Couscous 

 

The paella pictured below is not an Algerian dish as it originates from Spain.  During the French occupation of the country, a large number of Spanish people migrated to Algeria and brought some of their traditional dishes with them.  Paella was one of those dishes and it has taken its place in the Algerian menu.  I enjoyed this paella at my friend Mohamed's "LE Marin" restaurant.  It had some prawns, capsicums, squid, cuttlefish, olives and rice cooked in a delicious stock flavoured with tomato, onion, garlic and flavoured with saffron.  The result was heavenly and the unique brand of hospitality of my friend Mohamed made that evening a memory to cherish for a long time.  I can't wait to see him again soon for another one of these memorable evenings.

A Paella Served at Le Marin 2 Restaurant in Ain-el-Turck
 
Calentica is a traditional dish from Algeria based on chickpeas.  In order to make this simple dish,  water and chickpea flour are mixed and let stand overnight. The next day, olive oil, salt and pepper are added and the whole mixture is mixed again. the mixture is then poured on to a greased baking dish to a thickness of 2cm. It is baked at 300 °C for 1/2 hour in a preheated oven. The Calentica is traditionally served warm with generous amounts of freshly ground cumin but it can also be served with harissa.  This filling and nutritious dish is popular with workers at lunchtime and can be eaten as is or served in bread as a sandwich.  This dish has a unique flavour unlike anything I have ever tasted before. 


A Serve of Calentica - A savoury Chickpea slice served with freshly ground cumin



 

 

 

 


 

 

 
 

 


 


 



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 

 


 

 


 



 
 

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Bonjour Provence Tour - Day 7 Program Details

Today is Market day at St Remy de Provence and what a day this will be.  This market is one of my very favourite ones.  It is huge and you can find just about anything you may need; from foods of all  sizes, shapes and tastes to kitchenware, clothing, gifts, wines, pottery, etc...  I love going from one stand to another, listening to the sounds of the crowd, looking at the foods on offer and sampling the goods that the stand keepers are more than happy to let you try before you buy.

In this village, you’ll find all the charm of a typically Provencal way of life with its shady boulevards under century-old plane trees.  Discover narrow little streets with attractive boutiques and art galleries that make the town’s historic centre such a lively place.

Walk past the many cafes and restaurants where you’ll find a warm, friendly welcome especially on market days.  In this magical setting, bathed in sunshine for more than 300 days a year, you’ll realise why so many famous people have loved this little town.

Every Tour participant receives a few euros and is assigned a particular food item to buy and there is a lot to get from olives, to cheeses, smallgoods, wine, breads, fruit, cakes etc...


Cheeses and More Cheeses

Fresh Pastas

Freshly Baked Bread

King Size Cheese Wheels

Local Pottery

More Cheeses

More Cheeses to Choose From

The Olive Stand

The Paella Stand

Salamis and Sausages for Everyone

The Foie Gras Stand

The Smallgoods Stand

The Wine Stand
Once our shopping is done, we head back to the Domaine des Clos and gather all the food which we will share at a picnic in one of the many available shady spots at the Domaine.

Cheese Platter


Pate de Campagne and Bread

Smallgoods Assortment

The Picnic Table
After lunch, while some of the group heads to the kitchen for a cooking class, the rest of the group heads to the ground for a game of Pétanque; the famous game of steel bowls which is played on practically any flat surface.

Fresh Fig and Duck Brochettes

Salmon Timbale and Provence Salad

Sauteed Mushrooms

Slicing up the Smoked Salmon

Tarte Provencale

Tarte Provencale on the Plate

The Chef Putting the Final Touch

Veloute of Pumpkin with Sauteed Mushrooms
After a quick freshen-up, we all head to the dining room at the Domaine for what will be our last evening meal as a group.  This will be the time to think back on the wonderful week that we have just spent together and to look forward to new and exciting adventures.

The Market atmosphere of St Remy; nothing quite like it.  We all had fun during the cooking class and the petanque game was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon among friends. 

Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Bonjour Provence Tour - Day 6 Program Details

We will approach today from a rather different angle.  After yesterday’s feast of rich flavours, and gastronomical discoveries, we will instead focus most of the day on a return to Nature, a spiritual aromatherapy journey and the discovery of a Roman engineering marvel of historical significance.  Our first destination will take us to the Moulin du Calanquet.

The Moulin du Calanquet
This enterprise is founded on five generations in the world of agriculture, an attachment to the local area and respect for traditions.  The Moulin du Calanquet has an olive plantation of over 10,000 trees, planted in 1999.  It is distinctive in that it produces single-variety olive oils as well as a blend, which means that the many flavours and aromas of each variety can be brought out and combined with different foods.

Olive Trees at the Moulin

The Olive Harvest
 Image courtesy of the Moulin du Calanquet
Its name comes from the Provençal word “Calan”, which means a rock providing welcome shelter from the Mistral.  Strongly anchored in Provençal traditions, the Moulin du Calanquet is also a model of modernity. It uses all the latest production techniques, in compliance with European food safety and hygiene standards.

Field of Flowers at the Moulin

Flower Culture at the Moulin
After a visit of the Mill and a degustation of its many products, you will have the opportunity to browse in the retail shop and be sure to find the ideal gift to bring back home to your loved ones.
 
The Moulin Products 
Image Courtesy of the Moulin du Calanquet

Delicious Olives
Image Courtesy of the Moulin du Calanquet

Olive Oil
Image Courtesy of the Moulin du Calanquet
Time now for our second stop of the day; the Musée des Arômes et du Parfum at Graveson.  There, you will discover one of the most beautiful collections of distillers and perfume bottles in Europe.  You will also learn the secrets and magic of extraction and distillation of aromatic plants and fragile flowers done in a traditional distillery fashion.

The Musée des Arômes et du Parfum
 
Sylvia,the Hostess Explaining the Lavender Oil Extraction Process 
The Extracted Lavender Oil (yellow) at the Top of the Bottle

Take a walk through the aromatic organic garden around the “Carré des Simples”, the name given to their garden by monks of the Middle Ages.  The “simple” plants were cultivated for use in apothecary remedies.  In the experimental garden, aromatic plants of Provence have been grown organically because they provide a natural biodiversity.

A Refreshing Drink in the Outdoor Dining Room

Relax in the shade of the plane trees and enjoy your summer lunch in the bamboo cabin, savouring organic cooking from the aromatic garden.

And now for the treat of the day, an essential oil massage in the “aroma Cocoon”; a traditional Japanese Zen environment where a team of trained professionals will rejuvenate you in the peaceful comfort and surrounding of their facility.
A Relaxing Massage at the aromaCocoon
Image Courtesy of aromaCocoon
Finally; enjoy their direct sales counter where you will find essential oils, floral waters, aromatic compounds and many other products that are 100% certified organic.  Lots of wonderful gift ideas!

Time now for a bit of ancient history and off to discover the Pont du Gard.  The Pont du Gard is an ancient Roman aqueduct that crosses the Gardon River in the Gard department of Southern France. Considered to be one of the highest achievements of the Roman hydraulic works, it is part of the Nîmes aqueduct; a 50-km-long structure built to carry water from a spring at Uzès to the fountains, baths and homes of the citizens of Nîmes.
 
The Magnificent Pont du Gard
Le Pont du Gard - A Marvel of Roman Engineering

Built in the 1st century AD, the Pont du Gard is the highest of all Roman aqueduct bridges and is one of the best preserved.  It was added to the list of World Heritage Sites in1985 because of its historical importance.  The bridge has three tiers of arches, standing 48.8 m high.  The whole aqueduct descends in height by only 17 m over its entire length, which is indicative of the great precision that Roman engineers were able to achieve using only simple technology.
 
The Imposing Arches of the Pont du Gard
After the collapse of the Roman Empire and the aqueduct's fall into disuse, the Pont du Gard remained largely intact due to the importance of its secondary function as a toll bridge.  The bridge began to attract increasing attention during the 18th century and became an important tourist destination.  It underwent a series of renovations commissioned by the local authorities and the French state, that culminated in 2000 with the opening of a new visitor centre.  Today it is one of France's most popular tourist attractions.

After the visit of the Pont du Gard, we have a quick stop at the Domaine des Clos for a refresh and then off to l’Auberge de l’Amandin for dinner.  Located in the heart of Provence, Dominique and George will welcome you in the warm setting of their attractive beginning-of-the century house.  The Auberge is truly a little haven of peace at the gates of the medieval city of Beaucaire.
 
L'Auberge de l'Amandin 
Image Courtesy of  L'Auberge de l'Amandin

The specialty there is fresh fish from the Mediterranean Sea.  You will sample regional recipes prepared with only natural market goods and served inside, in a charming Provençal-style room, or outside, if the weather allows, under the trees, on a flowered patio by the pool.

Dominique’s approach in the kitchen consists in precisely knowing every single product that she uses, considering and reconsidering its savours according to the season, and in preparing it in order to reveal its deepest nature.  Her imagination and sincere respect of nature lead to a tasteful and surprising cooking that will enchant your palate.
 
Seafood Risotto

Coconut Crumbed Prawns
You can also count on George’s knowledge to help you create a flavoursome and harmonious meal by choosing the appropriate wine!  A native of Camargue, Georges loves to talk about his homeland.  Bon Appetit!!!

Another big day filled with new tastes, sensations, and discoveries is now over.  Time to get back to the Domaine for a well-earned rest.

I'll never cease to be amazed by the engineering marvel that the Pont du Gard is.  When one thinks that it was build 2000 years ago and with such precision !!!  Happy dreams and a great rest tonight ready for tomorrow's excitement.